Monday, 5 September 2011

Item 94: Norway in a Nutshell... Bergen to Flåm return

Location: Flåm, Norway

I picked my friends' brains for inspiration when I planned my final bank holiday of Summer: Norway in a Nutshell round trip from Bergen. I'd seen amazing photos and heard only good things. And friends, you know your stuff! This was one of my  most revitalising short breaks since coming to London four years ago.

My travel buddies and I collected our tour tickets from Bergen train station on Saturday morning and began our first day's travel via train, bus and ferry to the town of Flåm. The entire journey was filled with steep declines down to where the valley met the Sognefjord, Norway's longest and deepest fjord. Vibrant greens were dotted with pretty little houses along the coast, covered with mist for the morning. A sense of atmosphere posed the threat of down-pour which luckily started and finished during the second half of the cruise before docking at the harbour for our one-night stay in Flåm.

With the extra time in town, we were able to enjoy its peaceful  ambiance after all the tourist buses had left. In the afternoon, we went for a two hour hike up to the ecological farm which provided views of the fjord and valley from above, along a river, past the waterfall and enjoyed a cup of apple juice from the locally grown produce on the way back down.  We arrived back in good time for a casual and tasty dinner at the Fretheim hotel cafe, one of the four restaurants open that evening (and the only one not booked out).

The next morning we woke to find a healthy sized rabbit munching on the pretty flowers outside our hostel, happy the sun had come out for our journey on the famous Flåm railway, one of the world’s steepest railway lines. Again the scenery was amazing, and the train provided commentary and a stopover at at Kjossfossen waterfall. A perfect photo opportunity as we kept a look out for the local seductive forest creature - Huldra.

The mystical spells of the stop were broken by the whistle of the train conductor and it was back on board for a short transit at Myrdal station on to a commuter train back to the city of Bergen.

Item 94: Norway in a Nutshell? CHECK!

Wednesday, 24 August 2011

Item 93: Open Air Theatre - Take Two

Location: Regents Park Open Air Theatre, London.

I still recall the warm fuzzy feeling I had the week after I saw Hello Dolly at Regent's Park Open Air Theatre. When I heard that this year's production, "Crazy for You" was produced by the same team I was eager to go and check it out.

Reviewers of the show have given it five stars and they have it spot on. With a clever set design, colourful 50's style costumes (my flavour of the season), and hilariously cheeky choreography this was another light-hearted way to spend a summer day out in London.

Gershwin's songs were given warmth through the performance and the happy vibes in “I Got Rhythm”, “Someone To Watch Over Me” were channelled through the strong female lead.

When the weather isn't Melbourne's four-seasons in a day crazy like it has been recently, go and get tickets for a very enjoyable afternoon.

Item 93: Open Air Theatre? CHECK!

Item 92: Dubrovnik

DubrovnikLocation: Dubrovnik, Croatia

Prior to the scars of the sailing tour down the Dalmatian coast, we spent two days enjoying the beautiful coastal city of Dubrovnik.

Amazing views of the city could be seen from the air as we approached. Even the 30 minute bus ride into town showed breathtakingly clear blue waters of the Adriatic.

We were dropped off at the Pile gate, one of the two entrances to the Old Town and joined the other tourists enjoying the shops contained within the fortified city’s smooth stone streets.

Considering the hot weather, we woke early on the first morning to get the highlight 2km walk around the city’s walls completed. Steep stairs brought us 25 meters above street-level to the perimeter that encompasses a rich history from the town’s development in the 13th century to the repairs of buildings caused by the bombings from 1991 by the Yugoslav army. It also provided a good vantage point to the Summer-time happiness of sparkling seas.

Other pastimes enjoyed in the city during our visit included street music from the Dubrovnik Festival performers, lazing on the over-crowded Polce beach and copious amounts of ice-cream. Thanks to the lady that said, “It’s OK” when I tried to pay the 10 kuna for my scoop of blood orange in a cone. With my affinity to ice-cream, how could anything top that on my holiday?

Item 92: Dubrovnik? CHECK!

Monday, 22 August 2011

Item 91: Travel Talk Tour Croatia - Cabin Fever!

Travel Talk CabinLocation: Dalmation Coast, Croatia

Cramped into a cabin with three others, the distance between the two bunk beds the length of my forearm - (wrist to elbow), I'm surprised I only threw up three times on the ship during my week-long sailing tour down the Dalmatian coast.

I've never slept in such poorly ventilated conditions in 30-plus degree heat. With one fully opening window having a diameter no wider than 40cm, the dream "7 nights in above deck single, double and triple cabins in A category private boats with ensuite facilities and air-conditioning," advertised in the Travel Talk brochure had squeezed its way out through the tiny hole the moment our four petite bodies tried to fit into QUAD the room at the same time.

And that was even before we tried to get our packs unloaded.

There was an air-conditioner in the room, don't get me wrong. It just didn't work (read, has never worked).

Toilet with broken seat There was also an en-suite. Considering the size of the toilet/shower room I guess we should be thankful that only one item of clothing was lost down the loo during the week when trying to change in the facility. Especially adding to the fact that the toilet seat was broken for the duration of the tour. This posed to us slight difficulties while hovering above the bowl as the boat was rocking at sea. Even more so when the electricity generator for the ship turned off and you needed to relieve yourself in the pitch darkness of the enclosed room.

To my three roomies, thanks for the company and support during the week away - I don't think I could have managed such uncomfortably cramped and sweaty conditions with a better group of friends.

The dips in the sea and the coastline of Croatia were beautiful, our tour guide was warm and professional, the food was edible in the stuffy saloon packed with 22 other sticky bodies side by side, and if this trip wasn't hindered by the dread of having to go back to the room to change/sleep/shower/pee each day it would have been one of the loveliest summer vacations.

Right now, my mind is still rocking on the ship and I can't gauge focus on the screen so I should just write the day off.

Item 91: Travel Talk Tour? CHECK!

Sunday, 7 August 2011

Item 90: Stockholm - Hej hej

StockholmLocation: Stockholm, Sweden

Yes, there is a budget airline that has flights for under 100 quid to Stockholm....well 1hr 20mins from the city of Stockholm actually.

Overcoming the hurdle of getting into town, it was a relief to have two days of consistent sun as we soaked up the culture in the Swedish archipelago. Day one was museum day. Firstly to Vasamuseet – The Vasa Museum, to view the spectacular ship that only sailed for 20 minutes before sinking in the Baltic Sea on its maiden voyage. Devastating to the country at the time, but for us it was a rare opportunity to see a well persevered 17th century ship in it's (almost) original form.

Next on the list was Skansen Open Air Museum, conveniently located very close by. An ethnographic experience that I would describe as the Swedish equivalent of Sovereign Hill, we wandered the afternoon amongst recreated Sami villages in search of the traditional town bakery. The highlight was the zoo, home to native Nordic animals and very cute baby lynxes with the experience only diminished by stupid British tourists taunting the mother lynx by dangling their Sports Direct hoddies into the enclosure.

With the sun setting late in the evening we made the most of the extended day by taking a sight seeing boat tour around the islands, happy to see the locals enjoying their afternoon swim or cruise in the city's clean waters.

Day two had us up early to visit the old town, Gamla Stan, of the capital. Cobblestone paths directed us to the Royal Palace. We watched the changing of the guard and joined the 11am English tour of the Royal apartments which was very informative and detailed changes triggered from historic wars between Poland and Russia, then took us to the reception rooms of recent Swedish royal weddings.

Being in the home of H&M and Cos, we finished the afternoon with a spot of shopping for Scandinavian design before traipsing back through to the central station to get the Flygbussarna back to the airport.

Item 90: Stockholm? CHECK!

Sunday, 17 July 2011

Item 89: Greenwich Market - Sika Boutique

Location: Greenwich Market, London

Revisiting the markets from four years ago, the intriguing odds-and-ends on sale have now been overtaken by stalls thrifting standard imports from south-east Asia at ridiculous margins.

Luckily my favourite little find - Greenwich Market - is still bustling with a good selection of locally made food, fascinator stands and handy crafts contained in an under cover square. I've crossed the city of London a number of times to visit, via Thames ferry to approach Cutty Sark by river level and also DLR on weekends when the train line has been free of weekend engineering work.

Tucked in the corner of the square is Sika Boutique (Cherry Picked) run by the lovely Phyllis Taylor whose designs flatter everyone looking for something unique and not on the standard high-street, sold at a resonable price. Each time I've visited the store, one of my girlfriends or I have made a purchase. The dresses are tailored with a 1950's flare and made in Ghana, using their local materials and prints.

I attended a wedding recently and needed a dress in the style of 'Sunday Best'. I fell in love with one of the designs but the problem was it was a bit 'black' for a happy occasion. The lovely ladies at the store offered to have it made for me and helped me pick out navy waxed cotton and complementary lace from their samples book. Confidence I wouldn't show up in the same outfit as anyone else, it was really refreshing to find friendly service and the team even raced the dress from Ghana to London the weekend before the event so everything went well for me on the day - and I wasn't even the bride.

I can not recommend this store enough, and it's no surprise their success has them moving to a nearby location next month.

Let's hope that the weekend transportation challenge of getting to Greenwich Market remains that extra barrier for entry so it can maintain it's niche products and friendly store owners for a little bit longer.

Item 89: Greenwich Market?
CHECK!

Monday, 4 July 2011

Item 88: Chin Chin Laboratorists

Location: 49-50 Camden Lock Place, NW1 8AF

Hello Summer! And what better way to celebrate than with an ice-cream.

In the craziness of Camden Market, a very well mannered queue was formed outside the Chin Chin Laboratorists - ''London's first nitro ice-cream parlour".

We patiently joined the end of the slow moving line and peeked through the windows to glimpse past the engrossed patrons as they watched liquid nitrogen being poured into the mixing bowls to create their made-to-order ice-creams. Three flavours are offered each day: Valrhona chocolate, Vanilla and the weekly special.

Like children, our excitement rose as it became 'our turn' to order directly from the shop's owner Ahrash Akbari-Kalhur, standing behind the electric mixers with his industrial safety glove and glasses. We selected the special flavour 'Tea and birthday cake', as he explained to us how the cake and earl grey tea was infused overnight and there was less sugar and bubbles whipped into it compared to your stock-standard ice-cream to provide a smoother and 'healthier' option - ignoring the sauces and intriguing toppings that were to be added later.

Such friendly and patient customer service is rare in London and he captivated our attention as we watched the science experiment being demonstrated in front of our eyes.

As our feet tingled with a slight chill from the over-flow of liquid nitrogen from under the counter, we selected raspberry sauce and grilled white chocolate to complement our afternoon treat.

What a delicious highlight to a weekend in London, and what better anti-aging cream than ice-cream!

Item 88: Chin Chin Laboratorists? CHECK!